Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Queridos amigos,
One more beautiful day, and this in a beautiful city. Cafe society abounds, some of it sparkles. At the end of the day it is pleasant to see multigenerational groups sitting outside enjoying the sun and each other along with their drinks and snacks. I spent some time on a bench in front of the parador just enjoying the sun on my back and people watching.
Like most Spanish cities, Leon is compact. If I were to drive you around in it and ask you to estimate the population, you might guess 600,000 or so. It has only 130,000.
Parador breakfast buffets are famous and this morning's did not disappoint. As I walked out of the hotel, who should I see walking toward me but the two Irish nurses who were sisters. They had come just to see the parador which is a major tourist attraction along with two of the churches here. Warm greeting, took each other's pictures.
With Patsy, The Irish Nurse
I asked where their next stop would be. They said their Camino was over; they had run out of time. After visiting the parador they would catch a bus to Santander and fly back to Ireland. They invited me to look them up if I ever get to the west coast of Ireland.
Spent a part of the day sightseeing, visiting the cathedral in the morning. It is a gothic gem. Really stunning stained glass, second only, in my limited experience, to Chartres and perhaps Sainte-Chapelle. I left a lock in a place that will be illuminated by light from both the rose window at the back of the church and the stained glass over the altar.
The Rose Window
Building commenced in the late 13th century and was completed in only 50 years, thus avoiding a mixture of architectural styles. All this when the population of the town was 5,000. What are some Texas towns of similar size? Beeville? Yoakum? Karnes City?
Returned to my room at noon and couldn´t get the lights to work. I asked the chambermaid and she smiled. Playing along, I said I couldn’t live like this, in obscurity as dark as... (and here I couldn´t pass up the chance to use one of my favorite figures of speech learned in Mexico)… la boca del lobo...the mouth of the wolf. She laughed and assured me she knew magic, then proceeded to show me where the master switch was located, below knee level. A funny exchange.
In the afternoon I went to see the church of San Isidro. The host was present on the altar in an elegant monstrance and I sat there savoring the silence for perhaps 25 minutes.
The King in Still Reigns in Leon
Went to a restaurant for lunch. It was after 4 p.m. and the proprietor said they were no longer serving lunch. Returned to the hotel to check my email. There was a Canadian woman there who has been in the computer room every time I pass it. She said she had planned to go on to the end, but could no longer carry a pack; her legs hurt too much.
Had an almighty salad in the hotel bar, which is worth a visit just to see its vaulted ceilings and furniture. This is quite a building. The parador is in the old monastery. Adjacent is the old hospital. They now appear behind one stunning facade, but they were always physically separate, although the hospital was staffed solely by the monks.
Another View of the Parador
Pilgrims and guests knocked at the door, had their names inscribed, and were led to the fireplace and given ointment for their feet.
Over the years the monastery served various purposes. For many years it housed stud horses, one of whom sired over 600 colts. Its most infamous use was as a Nationalist prison during the Civil War. Some 20,000 Spaniards spent time in the prison, a number succumbing to torture and mistreatment.
Yesterday I walked around the cloister, which encloses a well-kept garden. As I sat on a ledge by a column, enjoying the sun on my face, a lone bird sang loudly. Many variations, like a mockingbird, each ending with interrogatory higher note, as though it were asking questions. I returned to the cloister today and placed a lock in the middle of a shrub, itself in the middle of the garden.
Where I left a Lock
Many rooms here, often with no apparent use. Lots and lots of space; much medieval style furniture.
Trying to stay in hotels instead of albergues is becoming more difficult. Today I had to choose between a hotel ridiculously close or one that will be a stretch. I chose the stretch. This will be my first time to go for 30+ kilometers, some 20 miles. The longest I walked in training was 16 miles. This seems like a good time to give it a try. My toes are feeling much better, I'm stronger now, and I’ll start with a magnificent breakfast. The weather is sunny and fair. I’ll be walking for some 10 hours. People here complain of the heat wave but the high in Leon today was 84.
After two big meals, I’ll have tapas for dinner and retire early after a hot bath. Next stop: Hospital de Orbigo, Dios mediante.
I’m now over 300 miles into my Camino.
Un abrazo fuerte,
John
| NEXT: Leon===>Hospital de Orbigo