The computer here only runs for 20 minutes, then shuts down. Doesn’t tell you how many minutes you have left or when you’re out of time. I lost 2 hours of work this morning finding that out. After 20 minutes you return to reception desk and ask for another codigo, a piece of paper with your new username and password. Tedious in the extreme. Also, the keyboard is Spanish, but the internal key arrangement is American. The only way I can use it is not to look at it. One nice touch is the golden oldies that play one after another, Elvis, the Beatles, and so on.
Decided before I arrived that I would dedicate Sunday to science and religion. Attend mass at the cathedral, lunch in the city, then continue on to Museum of Evolution.
I laid waste a bountiful breakfast buffet, then returned to freshen up. I carried a lot of little white tubes, all very similar. When I brushed my teeth, I miss the minty taste of toothpaste. Turns out I brushed my teeth with shaving cream.
I recall one guidebook comparing the climate in Burgos to that of Poland. And today it is cold and rainy. I ask if the hotel has umbrellas to lend. They do not. I walk to the nearby cathedral in my boina and windbreaker, both of which are supposed to be waterproof.
Burgos Cathedral
There is a full church, although mass is celebrated in a very large chapel, not the main church. There is a large and well-trained boys choir that adds a lot. The heavily ornate and gilded altar piece reaches at least 30-40 feet. Near the top is St. James, an apostle of peace. He’s sits on a rearing white charger, brandishing his sword. At the feet of his horse are two dead Muslims. This is straight out of the Reconquista.
During the mass there is the Greeting of Peace, when you embrace or kiss your loved ones, and shake hands or nod a greeting to your neighbors. At the wedding mass in Logroño, I was Mr. Invisible during the greeting of peace. No one would make eye contact with me, until I turned and looked at the woman behind me, straight in the face. She bravely shook my hand, her husband reluctantly followed.
Today it was totally different; I was greeted warmly by my circle. After mass I returned to the hotel, getting soaked in the process.
I had gone to the farmacia on Saturday, explaining about my toe. I was given Compeed, a special band-aid for blisters. When I got home, the directions said do not use on an infected toe, and mine certainly is. I returned today and explained the situation. I told her I had a triple antibiotic ointment already. She asked what the antibiotics were, something I didn’t have on the tip of my tongue. She said it might be time for something stronger, something with cortisone. Now we’re talking, I think. I’m to use it three times a day. Unless I mistakenly brush my teeth with it, I have enough to last me to the end.
I could suit up in boots and rain gear and try to make it to the museum, but my toes have been sending me love notes all day for not wearing boots. I just can’t let the little guys down.
When it clears in late afternoon, I go out to take pictures of this beautiful town. Under one of the ornate stone gates to the city there is a cellist playing Somewhere Over the Rainbow, slowly, heartbreakingly. I’ve seen only a few street musicians on my trip and they are all superb.
My computer savvy daughter-in-law has spent a lot of time setting up a blog for me, something I’ve never had. The name, Sero sed serio, is the Kerr clan’s motto. It means Late, but in earnest. I’m considering changing it to the motto of the Fergusons, my mother’s family: Dulcius ex asperis, Sweeter after difficulties.
It’s 11:15 p.m., and my toe is feeling better already. So now I’ll say good night.
Burgos Gate
The Climate of Burgos Has Been Compared to Poland
Burgos Topiary
Burgos Reader
A Stork Approaching its Nest in Burgos
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